Where’s Alex?

This time 2 years ago: June 7th, 2007 Thursday 9:45am
Cycle Europe Day 23: Train to Bologna.

I don’t want to be too critical but this morning confirms that Rome is the worst place of my trip so far. Meagre breakfast as usual. Went to transport my bike upstairs from the basement. Found out that my Kryptonite cable lock had cut marks, which was most likely from the previous day when I chained it to a bedpost that seemed unused. Next morning there was a notice saying that they needed the bed and I should have keep my bicycle outside. I chained it to a chair this time but still left it inside. I didn’t see the scratch marks yesterday. If I had, I would have made even more noise and try to get a refund. But I only saw it today and I had a train to catch to I left it.

Went to the reception to where the girl was more concerned talking to another guy about probably a broken computer than serving a customer. Politely I asked to check out before I asked her if she knew who wrote that notice. I explained that another receptionist said I could put my bicycle downstairs so I chained it to the bed when there should have been a cycle store. She said I shouldn’t have but I replied that still it was wrong on their part or the film crew that was filming there to attempt to cut my cable lock. I left with a final remark saying at the end of the day, the lock ‘only’ cost €50 but it was still wrong on their part when you put your customers last on your priority.

I always regret when I don’t handle situations good enough. I know it wasn’t the girl’s fault and I should have apologised to her for treating it like it was her fault. Maybe it was because she treated me badly that I sort of took revenge. Now I’m in the wrong again. Crap. I didn’t buy the lock but it did come with the bike so…

Should I send a proper complaint and an apology to the girl? Wait for the manager till 8:30am when I had a 9:14am train to catch? 30 minutes enough for me to get to train station? I should try to make this right in an e-mail.

Rome is expensive to stay in and to see sights. The Italian people at the hostel receptions at Rome and Firenze do not place customers first and they treat us like ’sausages’ (like D&A Opticians). Best place in Italy so far is Finale Ligure and it’s only because it’s close to France. Toilets in Rome’s Youth Hostel have no seats so you have to squat to shit. Shitty. Another statistic: Worst Value For Money Hostel: Roma!

(12 hours later.)

Had to change trains not only at Firenze SMN but also at Prato to get to Bologna. Once you’re on the streets, there are sign boards to guide you to the hostel itself so it’s already giving a good impression. There’s even a McD’s and Decathlon nearby so I got another spare tube. Nice purpose-built hostel. Plenty of plugs unlike Rome’s 70-year-old building that didn’t have the wirings. Large shower area and temperature control water. They say there’s continental breakfast here. We’ll see what it means.

Asked the friendly/helpful receptionist where I could get good ’spaghetti al ragu’ and lasagna. She kindly pointed 2 places on the map for me to find. One was only going to open at 8pm, an hour later, so I went to Trattoria Bertini and had Tagliatele alla Bolognese and Lasagna al Fruno (baked lasagna). The Bolognese noodles was wonderful. Full of flavour and cheese and mince meat. The lasagna was a bit strange but hey, that’s how the Bolognese people do it. The pasta was greenish but the rest was meat and cheese. Nice. €2 service + €6.50 x 2 + €1 tip = €16.

Pass by some Bologna sights as well the first university and another leaning tower. Definitely worth a comeback trip. Viva Bologna!!!

Day 23 Accounts
Spare Tube €3.00
Dinner €16.00
Hostel €15.50
Total €34.50

This time last year: June 6th, 2007 Wednesday 10:05pm
Cycle Europe Day 22: Sight-seeing Rome 2.

Beginning of my 4th week. 7 more weeks to go.
Started off slow today because I knew the Pope wouldn’t be out till 10am. But breakfast was again so little that I was out before 9. Was at the St. Peter’s Square by about 9:30am. Found a less secure entrance into the viewing area but not into seats where you need an orange invitation card or some sort. He wasn’t out till 10:30am but he made a good show out of it. His convoy more or less weave their way around the crowds along a barricaded passage. There was this guy who tried to jump on him or his truck but they arrested him. After the parade, a passage from the Bible was read, Paul’s letter to the Ephesians, I think. That passage was read in different languages but different priests who had to bow to the Pope before and after their reading. After that, he began to preach. There was also a banner up front which read: “Divine Teacher: May the whole world follow your gospel.” I think it would be more appropriate if it was meant for Jesus rather than the Pope but I’m not sure who those people holding it were thinking. Anyways, I got 2 good shots of him in photo so I left early to join the queue to enter the Vatican Museum.

Vatican Museum was a hefty €13 but it wasn’t worth much to someone who doesn’t appreciate art as much. There was still quite a lot to see although I honestly think there was far too much extra when the only thing on most people’s mind was the Sistine Chapel. Michelagelo’s Creation and Last Judgement is the most famous here. Borticelli also painted here in the chapel and they had artworks from Van Gogh and Gauguin and Rodin as well. In the guidebook, it’s mentioned that The Last Supper is in Milan. In the hostel directory, rather. I’ll do it next time with Venice and my other favourite spots in Italy but not Rome again if I can avoid it.

Came back early for snacks and a siesta on top of the one I had in the Tapestry gallery in the museum. Showered and had dinner while chatting with Yamaguchi-san, who is an assistant hair stylist. Travelling while that young at 22. Others are too, you’re at an odd age to travel but so are my peers. I think it’s the economic factor. A lady of Indian origin from Birmingham said that this hostel was built by Mussolini to train young fascist and it’s 70 years old. I think it’s more obvious from the taps and sink in the bathrooms. They warrant a picture at least.

Need an early rest. Train to Bologna leaves at 9:14am. I should plan my route.

Day 22 Accounts
Vatican Museum €13.00
Lunch €0.80
Dinner/Groceries €5.58
Hostel €18.00 Roma
Pen €1.00
Total €38.38 !!!

This time last year: June 5th, 2007 Tuesday 9:50pm.
Cycle Europe Day 21: Sight-seeing Rome.

Ran out of gel ink. Using the pen Grandad gave me 13 years ago.

Report about yesterday first. Arrived in Rome yesterday. Found my way to the hostel easy enough. Hostel is one of the worst places I’ve been so far. It looks purpose built as a hostel but had not been maintained for 10+ years. It should be the cheapest in Rome so don’t complain. Breakfast was only limited to one bun bread, forced cappucino and orange juice.

I had a few hours to spend since I arrived early so I took a walk to the St. Peter’s Basilica and scout out some bancomat and supermercato. It was quite a long walk but manageable. Lots of people in the queue but it was a relatively short wait. The Basilica might be no man’s land between the Vatican City and Italy. On the way back, surveyed internet point and made a Salame Milano sandwich. Chatted with Yamaguchi-san who is quite lost here in Italy. Strange guy.

This morning, breakfast was insufficient as mentioned. Hopped on a bus without being able to buy a ticket on board. so I got off near a Metro and tubed to the Colosseum. Wasn’t as impressive as I thought it would be. But sitting inside really helps you to imagine what it was like in the old days when 80,000 people would come watch gladiators, where the stairs were and how the crowd would walk up them to go to their seats. Next. Palatine Hill was a disappointment. There were more rubbles than buildings so it wasn’t worth the combined ticket. It was too big with no signs and signboards weren’t helpful. No commentary except your own guidebook.

Now Pantheon was impressive because I remember watching a documentary about how they might have constructed it 2000 years ago. The perfect hemispherical dome was quite magnificent with a hole in middle. Started out as a temple for other gods/Greek probably but later converted to a basilica as well. The square reliefs, how did they do it?

Trevi Fountain, boring. Went to Roma Termini to get ticket for Bologna. Faulty Towers Hostel and internet around wasn’t any cheaper so I decided to metro to outside Vatican City where it’s the cheapest in Europe so far. Along the way earlier, I caught sight of a paper shop, Il Papiro, and decided to get some patterned and another embossed stickers. They have embossed paper with alphabets plus envelopes for ~ €20. Good inspiration.

Came back to get some dinner from supermercato after 2 hours at the internet point to back up my pictures onto the 1GB card and clear unwanted photographs. Early close? Not exactly. Wow, turned out to be quite an expensive day.

Day 21 Accounts
Metro €2.00 Twice
Colosseum €11.00
Lunch €3.10 Pizza slices x2
Internet €3.00 2 hours
Hostel €18.00 Roma
Train Tickets €23.70 to Bologna
Dinner €3.44
Souvenirs €2.00
Total €66.24 !!!

This time last year: June 4th, 2007 Monday 9:45am.
Cycle Europe Day 20: Train to Rome.

Shoot! Just remembered Mom’s birthday was 2 days ago! AIYA!!! Good thing I gave her an ang pow when they were in England. I sent an e-mail update yesterday but forgot about the whole thing so I didn’t mention. I would have reminded David if I’d thought of it. Hmm…

I managed to get an earlier train to Roma Termini at 9:09am instead of the next one which was 2 hours later. I should arrive at 12:46pm. I’ve tied my bici securely in the driving carriage so I can sit in a passenger cabin air conditioned. We’ve been passing quite a few tunnels through Toscana’s (Tuscany’s) undulating terrain but I’ve only caught a small glimpse of the infamous tree-lined vineyard-sided roads. I think the roads here a cycleable and it would taken me 3 days to get to Roma from Firenze. But why spend 3 extra days when you can save about one day’s expenses on a train fare? I’m going to cover 316 km today. If I wanted to cycle, I should have cycled to Roma and train directly to Bologna from there. I’m missing the roads already but not sure if I would have enjoyed some of the taller hills.

This holiday, spending money has not been painful. I know I’ve set aside money for this and I can afford it. It’s not like when I first arrived in the UK, when after 4 days, I started to get worried about a job, a place to stay, my expenses and stuff like that. I think the bicycle is a good 2nd activity or distraction. While I’m ticking the tourist places off my list, I’m also achieving something personally significant in the process. Personally significant because it has taken me months of planning and it’s physically challenging.

For some reason, I haven’t felt God’s hand of interference as much. I still feel I need to depend on Him more for things even when things are going my way. I definitely depend on him when it’s not. Maybe I should be more thankful/grateful when things go according to plan. Thank you, Lord, for a great trip so far. Looking forward to your greater blessings. I’m still wondering how all this will bring glory to God. We’ll see… Running out of ink. Need to get new pens. Until then, take care.

Hilly for 1 hour, currently flat for about 1 hour, then mountainous again. (Mengantuk on train)

Day 20 Accounts
Train €18.40 to Rome from Firenze, 14.9 + 3.50.
Lunch €2.50
Dinner € 3.33
Groceries €1.41
Hostel €18.00 Roma
Souvenir €2.84 Vatican Stamps
Total €46.48 !!!

This time last year: June 3rd, 2007 Sunday 9:20pm.
Cycle Europe Day 19: Rest/tourist day in Firenze (Florence).

Free and easy day. Forced myself to get up really early, ~ 7+ am, so that I could get to Uffizi early to line up. Breakfast was again rationed, it almost always is whenever a ticket is involved. This time, it was 2 slices of french loaf and hot chocolate, plus orange juice. Last nights dinner was a beef burger (w/o bread) with salad, mash potato, 2 slices of bread, banana for €6.00 secondo piato. People with 2 course dinners were wasting pasta/spaghetti, I felt like asking but was too ashamed to. This morning, I managed to pick up some ciabatta from the bin and it was still wrapped in plastic. Not very filling either.

Decided that I would save on the bus fare and cycle to town. I saw a pair of Giant touring bikes (he & she). Nice bikes, I commented. And then I found out that my front tyre was flat. Pumped it again and it seemed fine so I guessed it might be a latent flat so I was too lazy to go back in and change tubes this early in the day so I left it till later.

Getting to the tourist centre was easy enough. Managed to find a place to park right opposite a supermercati which was about to open. Walked to Galleria Degli Uffizi and joined a queue that was about 80 metres long. Too about 1:30 hours to get in. Browse through most of the gallery but I think I missed a Michealangelo painting because I forgot my guidebook. Like National Gallery but without a floorplan to see highlights. Bummer. Highlight was probably Borticelli’s Birth of Venus. Think Adobe Illustrator 10 and below. Spent about 2:30 hours there.

Came out and went back to check that my bike was still there. Popped into the supermercati and got some bisgedi and self-made salami sandwich. After finishing my sandwich, I made my way to the Duomo. It was quite impressive on the outside. (Oh, before that, I checked out the supposed statue of David by Michealangelo in the open air museum in the Piazza Del Uffizi.) As I was saying, impressive on the outside but simple interiors. The outside had white and green marbles and the front portion (door/entrance) was suppose to be very intricate. The back portion was less so because of probably 2 reasons. No money and a plague (pneumonic probably, black death) where 4/5 of the people were affected. Labour then became a problem but the Florentines slowly bounced back. The double dome by Brunelleschi was made to salute the resilience of the Florentines. The American guide also said that it wasn’t so much the design of the octagonal dome that was impressive but the engineering feat that he (Brunelleschi) took on. Some of today’s engineering methods have been attributed to him. There was a statue of him looking on to the dome. The dome was probably a trial and error process since structural engineering was almost non-existent at that time.

After the Duomo, I went to the train station to get tickets to Rome tomorrow. McDonald’s was nearby but it was too crowded so I used my navigator to lead me 0.40 miles to another outlet where I bumped into the Brazilian girl from the laundry last night and spotted that Canadian guy. Wanted a Big Mac but the counter girl thought I my hand gestures meant grande. Early dinner so I’m having some bisgedi now. Replaced my tyre tube, bathed and packed some of my stuff. Ready for another city tomorrow…

Day 19 Accounts
Lunch/Groceries €4.10
Dinner €6.50
Internet €2.70
Call Hostel €0.20
Hostel €18.00 Firenze
Uffizi €6.50
Total €38.00 !!!

This time last year: June 2nd, 2007 Saturday 9:30pm.
Cycle Europe Day 18: Pisa - Firenze (Florence), 59.5 mi.

What a day! Started out with a wake up call by the cleaning lady at 8:30am. Had to be out by 9:00am. Strange place. Don’t go back there. Breakfast was light with some bisgedi, Sander gave me 2 croissants which turned out to be the only fuel I had to till 1:30pm. Had to negotiate my way out of Pisa before getting on SS67.

At first it seemed strange that all the supermarkets were closed. Shops too. Even McDonald’s! National Day in Italy!!!

After passing 2 pizza bars, I decided to stop at the third. Not sure whether it was a good decision or not. Had 2 slices that gave me the shits later. I had to stop in some gap between buildings, hide behind my bicycle and “let yourself go.” Wasn’t too messy.

The other thing I had to deal with was 2 outbreaks of rain. But God provided me with 2 great places to shelter. The 1st was a post office. Stopped about 45 minutes there, had my 2nd croissant, a little siesta and off we went. The 2nd was under a bridge (highway) with a bunch of tractors. It was rough at first but I moved on to a tractor vage control with a leather cushion seat. Later some guys came over as if to buy/sell the machinery, checking its conditions. I was there for almost an hour. Both times it rained, it became quite chilly. Both times had naps. I think the naps were necessary? I’m not sure if the shits helped timed the shelter under the bridge. I think God planned it well.

Apart from those obstacles, the ride was okay. Not too bad a case saddle sore. Roads started out flat but it became pleasantly undulating. Climbs weren’t too high and saw a bit of Tuscany landscape but not enough for a picture. Coming into Florence was a little hectic but managed the final climb uphill to the hostel. Looks like a hostel when it was suppose to be some villa. Staff not very friendly. Probably had a long day but that’s still not an excuse.

Have to decide how to go into town tomorrow. Bus or bike. Then I have to confirm train times to Rome from last year. They only have an old schedule. 7:09am, 9:09am, 11:09am… Laundry takes forever too. 4 washers and only 1 works. Too many Canadians. Canadian trying to pick up Brazilian girl. Oh, come on?!!

Day 18 Accounts
Lunch €4.80 4 pizza slices
Dinner €6.00 Hostel food
Laundry €5.20
Hostel €18.00 Firenze Villa
Snickers €1.00
Total €35.00!!!

This time last year: June 1st, 2007 Friday 11:00pm
Cycle Europe Day 17: Marina di Massa - Pisa, 30 mi.

Usual routine in the morning, normal start and had bisgedi for breakfast which wasn’t going to last me long. The ride started out quite flat in the morning and was flat almost all the along the way. For most of the way it was like a Hollywood Boulevard with its wide roads (4 lanes), hotels and beach bars/restaurants along the sides. Most of this stretch even had cycle paths. It was so flat along this coast that I started to miss the hilly ones but today, I had other things to contend with. Headwinds was the lesser of my concerns today. I had to deal with 1/2 hour (or less ~ 15 minutes) of solid rain. Totally got me drenched, wet from head to toe literally. Tried to cycle through it but stopped behind some newly completed shop houses for another salami sandwich and a comfort break. Rain stopped fairly quick and I was back on the road and God greeted me with warm sunshine rays.

Had difficulty looking for hostel because the navigator sent me to the wrong place for the 1st time. After finding it, it wouldn’t open till 6pm so I got back into town to see the tower. Wasn’t as big as I thought it would be and everybody else said the same thing. Wasn’t going to spend €15 and wait for another 1:40 hours for my turn to climb it so I told myself I’ll do it next time. Came back to the hostel, still empty, so I secretly took a shower even before I checked in. It was a good thing because others came later. Talked to Sander from Amsterdam for a little while, he’s having a good hitch-hiking trip from Amsterdam to Rome. He could speak most languages so he was alright. Need to speak to ask and have some conversations.

We went out later with Ed, Ruth and Helen and had dinner at a restaurant. I ordered lasagne and we all shared wine. On the walk back, we saw fireflies!!! Fireflies!!! Cool!!! A field with plenty of fireflies. Ed was a production engineer for 5 years and quit his job to join a volunteer program and went to Kazakhstan where he met someone and is getting married next summer. Sander is a physics student. Good fun.

Florence tomorrow. More touristy places like today. Didn’t enjoy Pisa too much, probably because it was too touristy so I’m beginning to not look forward to my Florence and Rome trip now.

Oh, and I also dreamed about Solectron P2 today. JL, Nik, CL Yeoh, Devan Jatkar. Haha… It was about a cheque for payment. Funny man…

Day 17 Accounts
Groceries/Lunch €3.31
Hostel €15.00 @ Pisa
Dinner €9.00
Total €27.31

This time last year: May 31st, 2007 Thursday 9:50pm.
Cycle Europe Day 16: Train from Finale Ligure to Riomaggiore, bike 25 miles to Marina di Massa.

Good day today. Got up early to start off with breakfast and 2 cups of strong chocolate with milk from the machine. Was out before 8:15am. Managed to catch an even earlier train than I originally planned, at 8:42am direct. No switch required. Bicycle carriages are in the front, remember.

The views were not as impressive. There were many tunnels as we had to make our way past those cliffs again. Good thing I didn’t ride that coast again. Went past Genova and saw that as Tahana said, it was a bit more industrial since it used to be an old port. There was nothing notable there or anywhere else along the coast by train. Even as we entered the Cinque Terre region, there was still too many tunnels to get any sort of view. Had lunch on train, salami sandwich that I made my own.

Got off at Riomaggiore and took some sign pictures. A bit too commercialised with too many tourists even in this shoulder season. Arrived at 12:30pm so it was about 3:45 hours train ride. Then started my climbs. It was quite steep in the village but it got better once I got to higher ground where I could actually cycle. I pushed my bike through the steeps and cycled from highway SP370 onwards. It was an easy ride from then on. Plenty of downhill to spare in bits and pieces to keep things interesting. Unfortunately for a motorcyclist on a Harley Davidson, his day for worse. Not sure how he crashed after a tunnel but was conscious and 2 other men were there to help. I only offered my prayer that he would get the help that he needs and that he will encounter God through this experience.

Going into La Spezia was interesting because it might have been a road used by Giro d’Italia with greetings painted over the road. There were also signs (-8), (-7), (-6) as you got up higher (I was going downhill) to tell you how many switchbacks are left. Hairpin turns. Probably for the King of Mountain (GPM) jersey. Surprisingly easy ride after that.

Hostel is cheap but they charge extra for gas cooking. Managed to buy spaghetti stuff and cooked 2 potatoes to fill up. Overhauled my bike: clean transmission drive train, switch front to back tyre, and shifted my weight distribution of the rear rack closer over the wheel to improve handling by reducing wagging tail effect. Good job, feels like now.

Short ride to Pisa tomorrow so I should get to climb it then. We’ll see. Another few more major highlights coming up. Saved a day at Genova to get back on schedule.

Day 16 Accounts
Train Ride €11.20 Finale Ligure to Riomaggiore (€7.70 + €3.50 Ciclo)
Lunch €1.97
Dinner €2.68 Spaghetti
Hostel €11.00 Marina di Massa
Gas €0.70 (wasted €0.20)
Total €27.55