Where’s Alex?

This time last year: May 31st, 2007 Thursday 9:50pm.
Cycle Europe Day 16: Train from Finale Ligure to Riomaggiore, bike 25 miles to Marina di Massa.

Good day today. Got up early to start off with breakfast and 2 cups of strong chocolate with milk from the machine. Was out before 8:15am. Managed to catch an even earlier train than I originally planned, at 8:42am direct. No switch required. Bicycle carriages are in the front, remember.

The views were not as impressive. There were many tunnels as we had to make our way past those cliffs again. Good thing I didn’t ride that coast again. Went past Genova and saw that as Tahana said, it was a bit more industrial since it used to be an old port. There was nothing notable there or anywhere else along the coast by train. Even as we entered the Cinque Terre region, there was still too many tunnels to get any sort of view. Had lunch on train, salami sandwich that I made my own.

Got off at Riomaggiore and took some sign pictures. A bit too commercialised with too many tourists even in this shoulder season. Arrived at 12:30pm so it was about 3:45 hours train ride. Then started my climbs. It was quite steep in the village but it got better once I got to higher ground where I could actually cycle. I pushed my bike through the steeps and cycled from highway SP370 onwards. It was an easy ride from then on. Plenty of downhill to spare in bits and pieces to keep things interesting. Unfortunately for a motorcyclist on a Harley Davidson, his day for worse. Not sure how he crashed after a tunnel but was conscious and 2 other men were there to help. I only offered my prayer that he would get the help that he needs and that he will encounter God through this experience.

Going into La Spezia was interesting because it might have been a road used by Giro d’Italia with greetings painted over the road. There were also signs (-8), (-7), (-6) as you got up higher (I was going downhill) to tell you how many switchbacks are left. Hairpin turns. Probably for the King of Mountain (GPM) jersey. Surprisingly easy ride after that.

Hostel is cheap but they charge extra for gas cooking. Managed to buy spaghetti stuff and cooked 2 potatoes to fill up. Overhauled my bike: clean transmission drive train, switch front to back tyre, and shifted my weight distribution of the rear rack closer over the wheel to improve handling by reducing wagging tail effect. Good job, feels like now.

Short ride to Pisa tomorrow so I should get to climb it then. We’ll see. Another few more major highlights coming up. Saved a day at Genova to get back on schedule.

Day 16 Accounts
Train Ride €11.20 Finale Ligure to Riomaggiore (€7.70 + €3.50 Ciclo)
Lunch €1.97
Dinner €2.68 Spaghetti
Hostel €11.00 Marina di Massa
Gas €0.70 (wasted €0.20)
Total €27.55

This time last year: May 30th, 2007 Wednesday 7:20pm.
Cycle Europe Day 15: Rest day in Finale Ligure.

Rest day today, liked the Finale Ligure hostel quite a lot so I’m staying an extra night. With this extra night I’ve just changed my plans to cut off Genova from my itinerary since Tahana gave it a bad rating. Plus, I couldn’t get Manarola or Riomaggiore to fit my scheduled stops for spending later nights so I decided to train to Riomaggiore and cycle to Marina di Massa. I’m also not going to take that chance of riding 80+ miles from Genova to Marina di Massa so the short cut was more or less enforced. Then why did you do Marseille to Frejus for? It’s because I couldn’t stop at Riomaggiore for a bit and later do Marina di Massa because it would add too many miles. I want to say that I was at Cinque Terre. And trains in Italy are cheap. And I knew what I was getting into with Frejus. Only an early climb, not like coming to Finale Ligure where I had to climb smaller hills even at the end. Good change of plans, I think.

Waiting for spaghetti bolognese. Strange waitress. Obviously surprised that I ordered so little. Spoke no English so… Didn’t want any drink either. That’s for chasing me out 1/2 hour before you opened? No kid’s chair either. Hmm…

Didn’t do much today. Just walked around town and Finalborgo. Lunch was something new. Bought a baguette and some salami slices and made my own sandwich. While looking to fill up on water, decided that weather was not too hot and just right for an ice-cream. Double scoop… nice. Learned the word acqua when the lady saw what I wanted.

Later, went to the post office but they didn’t have any commemorative stamps. Walked the beach a little where it was too hot to eat earlier. Went back to Internet Cafe for an hour to update stuff. Came back to the beach and saw kids having fun playing with sea water and I decided “Oh, what the ???”, why not? So I took my shoes and socks and soaked my feet in the Ligurian sea waters. Felt like a little kid again. Definitely worth it since the playing with water at the hand level was not enough.

Just like the pasta. Spaghetti bolognese. More like a starters portion. Should I get another or just go for pizza? Always the cheaper choice. Thought I saw an interesting place earlier. Go check it out. Early train tomorrow. And get them to book Marina di Massa tomorrow for you!!!

Day 15 Accounts
Groceries/Lunch €3.21
Internet €2.50
Ice Cream €1.40
Hostel €14.50 Finale Ligure
Dinner €8.50 Spaghetti Bolognese + Hot Dog
Calls €1.60
Total €31.61

This time last year: May 29th, 2007 Tuesday 9:00pm.
Cycle Europe Day 14: Menton - Finale Ligure, 65.62 mi.

Started with a big breakfast. Finally managed to get receptionist girl to call Finale Ligure youth hostel to see if they were busy there. She then asked me in her American accent: “What’s there to see in Finale Ligure?” We’ll see…

Was suppose to follow the SP1 or SS1. Thinking that roads along the coast should be almost flat. Wasn’t as flat as I thought it would be, there were a few steep climbs and it was mostly undulating depending on how much room God decided to give people to build roads. Did struggle later because I had climbed 2 major terrains in the previous 2 days so this combined climb was tough on my arse and legs. I think I’m going to use an extra day’s rest here.

On the way, I had a mozzarella cheese sandwich that has been making me fart the whole day. Had mozzarella pizza again so I hope the same doesn’t happen.

Back at the hostel, another torturous climb up (why do they build hostels this high?) a steep slope. This time, it’s not some plain bungalow like Menton, it’s a castello! Castello Vuillermin. Cool. Also very good value for money: breakfast, sheets, newly refurbished bathrooms, temperature control showers and views! Too bad no free internet. I’ve got a hexagonal room with balcony, 8 beds but no one here yet. Has got lockers too. All in all very impressive. Met Tahana from Vancouver, Washington state who knows Camas stinks because it has a paper mill. Left kids with husband for a 30-day vacation with friend. She gave me lots of tips for Finale Ligure, looking for makan, walking steps downhill. Should start planning next few days. Write later…

Day 14 Accounts
Groceries €4.64
Groceries €1.66
Dinner €6.50
Hostel €14.50 Finale Ligure
Total €27.30

This time last year: May 28th, 2007 Monday 10:20pm.
Cycle Europe Day 13: Frejus - Menton, 63 mi, 11 hours.

Too long, too crazy. But met some other cyclist that was even crazier than I was. Meet Daniel, got his card. Talk more about him tomorrow, too tired.

Regretted N7. Too many hills to climb, but managed to get through Nice, Cannes and Monte Carlo all adding to the 11-hour ride and push today. Must move on tomorrow but not sure of availability of Finale Ligure. No choice. God will provide. Thank you, Lord, for your countless blessings and grace in times of trouble. Help me never to doubt your faithfulness and your providence. Praise the Lord.

The Day After: Trying to think back on what I liked about the trip yesterday. I liked the earlier climb between Frejus and Cannes. Tough uphills but great downhill to go with it too. After that, while I regretted taking the N7, I got to the chance to meet Daniel at Eze. I pushed my bike up most of that N7 until I stopped to take a picture of myself with the “Eze” sign when Daniel stopped and said he saw me earlier, even before Cannes. He was charging his electronics or some sort. He has a recliner bike. €2,500!!! Another good thing about meeting Daniel was that he knew some Monaco sights and managed to show me around. We managed to catch the famous(?) F1 Monaco corner, the pit garage (remnants of what’s left), Monte Carlo Casino and the world’s most expensive car, the Buggatti in a showroom. We rode for about 15-20 miles together before parting ways at Menton when I was about to go to the hostel. When the day ended, it was about 11 hours since I left Frejus. Whew.

Menton’s youth hostel was way up a mountain. Quite average and nothing to shout about except the view, a final look at the Cote D’azur. 29/5/2007 9:00pm.

Day 13 Accounts
Groceries €3.06
Snack €1.70
Dinner €3.21
Hostel €16.60 Menton
Total €24.57

This time last year: May 27th, 2007 Sunday 10:20pm.
Cycle Europe Day 12: Marseille - Frejus, 81.74 mi, 9 hours 10 minutes.

And, the biggest climb, the longest ride, the fastest speed. It was a day of records. I was actually thinking of putting up statistics of these. Here’s a preliminary list.

Longest ride: 9 hours 10 minutes
Highest climb: Have to check, was today as well.
Longest distance: 81.74 miles
Fastest speed: 31.6 mph
Best hostel: AJ Frejus/St. Raphel
Worst hostel: AJ Marseille Bois Luzy
Most expensive meal: Bouillabaisse Marseille €11.90 + €1.00 tip

Got up to an early start today. Had packed my bags last night to get to breakfast ready. Breakfast was the worst €3.50 I’ve ever spend on. Only toast (french), nothing else. One block of butter, that’s it. Crap, I said. I’ll eat the whole basket of french loaf. No cereal. Crappy, stingy.

Now that the worst was over, banged my way around neighbourhood streets before finally finding the main road. The early uphills were narrow, basically residential area. People who are not in the right mind would stay along those hills but I could understand why. It’s like Fraser’s Hill. Then we got onto the N560 where the fun really starts. There were 2 stretches of winding up hill climbs. The corners always kept you guessing whether that would be the peak. The terrain was rocky as well. I remember thinking ” How did I get myself into this mess?” in a funny way. Absolutely smashing. Wasn’t so much fun after joining the N7 but the downhills were still OK. But I was surprised that there were so many flats & I thought there wouldn’t be too many climbs left but La Provencale had other plans. Later I kept questioning “Where are all the downhills I worked so hard for? Did I use them all up? Hmm…”

The ride was getting a bit too long after 70 miles, my arse started to get tired and my wrist sore from all the bike handling and body weight support. But the hostel was definitely a welcome relief. I think it’s the best value for money hostel I’ve stayed in so far. Better reception compared to yesterday, surrounded by coniferous trees, up on a hill, old farmhouse building dating 100 years back, cooking facilities, cheap rates, breakfast included, reasonable laundry fee, ~ free internet, temperature control shower, newly refurbished bathrooms, dining room looks great. No sheets, I think. But I get to use the one Mum sewed for the first time. Excellent! Fantastic! Would have stayed an extra night if I needed rest but I think I going to move on.

Met Garf to share a pizza with, a Merguez sausage pissa. Nice guy all round, Canadian from Montreal. Cool. One of the best days of my trip so far. Oh, and add another to the statistics. Highlight of all highlights: Zinedine Zidane!

Selamat malam. Menton tomorrow, I think.

Day 12 Accounts
Breakfast €3.50 @ Marseille Bois Luzy
Groceries €3.85
Dinner €4.30 Pizza delivery, Merguez sausage!
Laundry €3.00
Hostel €13.30 @ Frejus/St. Raphel
Total €27.95

This time last year: May 26th, 2007 Saturday 7:30pm.
Cycle Europe Day 11: Rest day in Marseille.

Scratcy night again. At least they were old ones, no new ones coming out. Got an early start, out before 9. Took bus Ligne 6 to Charteaux before taking the metro to Vieux Port (or Old Port). Oh yeah, breakfast was just some bisgedi I bought yesterday. As I was saying, I was early enough to see some fish mongers still selling. Walked along the left coast before stopping to see how a boat being towed is then placed in the water. Takes a lot of logic to reversing a towed vehicle. Spend about 20 minutes just watching.

After that, I walked up to Palais du Pharo, some mansion perched on the top of a cliff. Next was a Basilica Notre Dame De La Garda, a temple that seemed more dedicated to the Virgin Mary rather than Jesus. It was as though the Virgin Mary was the mediator between the worshipers and Jesus, when Jesus is the actual mediator between us and God. This was the impression that I got from their prayer.

Came down from that 140m climb to look for bouillabaisse, a French Provencal soup. At the start of my search, I stumbled upon a charity football match which ZINEDINE ZIDANE was playing in. Cool!!! Got plenty of pictures but didn’t really get close. Still, to see him live made my Marseille day. Who needs the mural that Adidas took away? But I couldn’t find his Merci shirt.

Back on the hunt for my soup, I managed to find the cheapest restaurant that served bouillabaisse, for only €11.90! And that includes some toasted french loaf, grated cheese, a Provencal sauce, the soup that had two types of fish and some clams. Free flowing water too. A couple from Cambridge was right beside me, friendly polite people.

Wanted to see if La Canabiere was anything like Las Ramblas. Nope, quite messy actually. Managed to find a standard rate internet access so I wrote home.

Came back only to find that I couldn’t cook with pots and pans which wasn’t provided so I had to go out again, this time something light, a salad and some bananas. This place definitely no match with Haworth.

Write tomorrow, after the biggest climb…

Day 11 Accounts
Hostel €10.80 Marseille Bois Luzy
Groceries €4.86 (wasted €2.49 beef)
Metro x2 €3.40 1 hour each way
Lunch €12.90 Bouillabaisse Marseille €1 tip
Dinner €4.75
Total €36.71

This time last year: May 25th, 2007 Friday 10:30pm.
Cycle Europe Day 10: Tarascon - Marseille, 62 mi.

Huff and puff! But I’ll talk about that later. First of all, just want to recollect last night’s events. While on the way to getting lost, I stumbled upon an internet cafe/kiosk. Updated some of my blog stuff, only to find that David (Lee, your brother!) is shutting down his blog at the stroke of midnight on Saturday. Reason: His sharing was considered a weakness that other judged him with thus causing others to sin. Not a bad one, eh? Let’s see how God can use Him without his blog.

Anyways, got back early to cook me pasta. Went fine, noticed a cycling pannier being used as a shopping bag. Turns out he’s a cyclist, a touring cyclist too, like me! A man of about 50’s. Too bad he couldn’t speak English so we didn’t share stories. Nice bike too, looked new.

Breakfast was the usual french loaf and cereal but with some Koko Crunch! Yeah! The ride started well enough, easy uphills and slow downhills. Somewhere in the middle, there was long climb, long enough for them to name the peak Col after some Telegraph or something. Check digital photos.

But there were other climbs to come, some looked higher than that one. The 2nd last was probably the one where there was a restaurant that charged more for orange juice that a ham sandwich. After that downhill, I pushed my bike up on 2 more other climbs, or more. Way too tired.

Cycled through suburbs (poorer ones) of Marseille. Drivers are more like Malaysia/Penang drivers. Another difficult climb before reaching the hostel. Building is very similar to Haworth YHA in terms of charm except for the interior decoration which was pretty basic. Mansion Bois Luzy, run by Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, 2 old men. Not sure how to cook, there are no pots and pans and utensils. Walked too far for Champion marche, anchovy-cheese pizza after that gave me the shits…

Sleepy. Talk more tomorrow. Creepy, all alone in the largest room.

Day 10 Accounts
Hostel €12.50 Marseille Bois Luzy
Lunch €4.90
Dinner €6.50
Total €23.90